Q: What is a core charge?

A: The sale of a remanufactured part involves the price of the part itself, as well as an additional core charge to encourage the return of the old part for remanufacturing purposes. The core charge, sometimes called a core price, is a form of deposit you pay until returning your old part. If you don't have the core at the time of purchase, you must pay the core charge. That charge is refunded to you when you return the core.

Q: How high of a compression can I run in a Banshee and still run pump gas?

A: Up to 160 compression on a Banshee is acceptable.

Q: How should I set the timing on my Banshee for high compression?

A: Run a Dyna CDI box, but if you have a timing plate, run around to +2 to +3 with pump gas and 160 compression and around +5 to +8 if you change to race gas (the range varies depending on your altitude and octane.

Q: Should I buy a Stage IV head with replacement domes or should I have my head shaved and how much should I shave it?

A: You would have to do a complete head modification to get over the 145 compression mark ($138.00). The head mod will set your desire compression. If you go to our Stage IV head you could run any amount of compression you want, and change back and forth as long as you run the octane to support it.

Q: How good are your Pro-Lite pistons and will they last if I change rings often?

A: Pro-Lites are the best high-performance pistons on the market. Because of the RPM range the rings may need a little more attention but that will depend on how hard you ride.

Q: How do I read my spark plug?

A: To properly read a plug, you will need a 10x illuminated magnifying glass.

• Set your heat range from the ground strap (this is the piece closest to the piston).
• Do all plug readings for jetting from the base ring (the base ring is what the ground strap is welded to at the end of the threads).
• You determine detonation and timing issues form the porcelain (the porcelain shows pre-ignition/detonation, it will not accurately determine jetting/air fuel ratios.

DO NOT BASE JETTING DECISIONS ON PORECLAIN COLOR.

• How to determine plug heat range:
  The ground strap is your window to getting this right. If the color of the ground strap changes near where it is welded to the base ring, then it means that the plug heat range is too hot (heat transfer to the base ring is too slow, causing the deposits to be burned off the strap completely). The strap at this point could start working like a glow plug, probably resulting in pre-ignition and/or detonation. The properly set heat range is when the color is at the halfway point on the strap.
• Reading the base ring to determine jetting:
  The base ring color is very close to the color of the piston crown and is used to determine jetting. You're looking for the soot color to be a nice light to medium brown. If the color doesn't go all the way around the base ring (at least one full thread turn on the plug) or the color is white-ish, it is too lean. If the color goes all the way around, but there is a spotting of heavy dry soot on the top of the color, you are too rich (two-stroke jetting will be a little wetter looking and darker than on a four-stroke).
• Read the porcelain to determine detonation/pre-ignition:
  The first signs of detonation/pre-ignition will be seen on the porcelain down in the plug. It shows up as tiny black or shiny specks of aluminum. Also look very closely around the center electrode where the porcelain intersects. This will appear to be melting between the insulator and the electrode. Detonation is caused by the air/fuel mixture exploding rather than burning. This gives off a sound (a knock). This sound is the result of a shockwave. This wave disrupts the boundary layer of cooler gasses that cover the internal parts of the combustion chamber. This causes a very rapid rise in pressure and temperature. The results are holes in the top or sides of the piston, blown head gaskets, or broken rods. This can also shock the rings from their seals, causing oil to form as little spots on the porcelain.

Q: How do I count the clips on my needle?

A: With the needle's blunt end facing up (as it would appear installed in the carburetor), the top clip will be #1, the clip below it #2, etc.

Example: To richen your needle jetting, you would move the needle down (ie. from clip #3 to clip #4) and move it up (ie. from clip #3 to clip #2) to lean the jetting.

Q: How far can I bore my Banshee out before I have to worry about overheating?

A: Do not go beyond p8 or .080 over.

Q: I've heard you can port/polish for bottom to midrange power or for top-end? Is this true?

A: Yes, how Trintiy ports a customer's engine depends on what kind of riding they do. For the best low-end power, go Stage II. For the best top end power, go Stage IV. Trinity ports for a good bottom and a better top-end in one port job (Pro MX). This is the best all-around port job.

Q: What kind of tires does Trinity use on its dyno?

A: Trinity Racing long ago established that stock (or knobby) tires cannot be used to give an accurate reading because of the low pressure in those tires and the lack of consistent grip they provide to the dyno wheel. To remedy this, Trinity has assembled a setup that allows them to use the same high-pressure street treaded tires on every bike they put on the dyno chart.

Q: Why doesn't Trinity use Hoosier tires on their dyno?

A: Many years ago, Trinity found that Hoosier tires are far too wide and the wider a tire is, the more it expands as the tire accelerates on the dyno, changing the physics of the tire on the dyno wheel and altering the consistency of the dyno numbers and robbing horsepower as it expands. The more accurate a dyno is, the easier it is to tune your engine. Trinity has spent years finding new ways to cut down on any friction loss between the ATV and the dyno wheel, which decreases horsepower and limits the fine-tuning that can be done to any engine. To gain the maximum benefits of tuning your bike on a dyno, this is the best way we know how to do it. Trinity Racing knows that these changes can lead to a higher reading than many other performance shops, which is why Trinity always tries to include a stock horsepower number for your comparison on the same Dyno.

Q: How do I break in my new two-stroke engine?

A: Almost all problems that will occur will be from a lack of attention to jetting or the break-in. Please follow all of the following instructions carefully:

1. The break-in is very simple. All you have to do is start the engine and let it idle slowly. Do not rev the engine at this time. Do this until the cylinders get hot to the touch (about 3 minutes).

2. Turn off the engine and let it cool completely. After this, you must re-torque the base and head bolts (repeat steps 1&2 three times before moving to step 3). NOTE: If you have a head stay on your bike, this must be loosened before you re-torque your head (a heady stay is a mount that goes from the frame to the head).

3. After the third re-torque, you can start the bike and ride it. Please avoid lugging or revving the engine. Just ride it nice and easy for about an hour.

4. After an hour of riding time, you should let it completely cool off again and then re-torque the head gasket only. Check the water level (you want to keep it about one inch over the core, do not fill it to the top). Ride the ATV again and try to keep the RPM under 9,000 and don't lug the bike. Get about 10 hours of riding like this.

5. Congratulations! You can now ride the bike as hard as you please!

6. Be sure to watch your jetting and remember that a big engine needs air to run properly. You may need to modify your airbox or filter.

Q:How do I break in my new four-stroke engine?

A: Camshaft Break-In Procedure:

Coat the camshaft lobes and bearing journals with an EP lubrication such as LC400 "Cam Guard" or a moly-paste. Avoid excessive cranking. The break-in procedure must commence as soon as the engine has oil pressure (approximately three seconds). If the engine fails to start with 15-30 seconds, it is recommended to re-apply the EP lubricant to the lobes.

Start the engine and run at 2,000 RPM for 15 to 20 minutes. This may cause overheating with some engines so take appropriate measures to ensure air flow. If water-cooled, make sure no air bubbles develop in the cooling system after the first start. After this, take the engine off fast idle and shut the engine off. Re-adjust the valves. If any special camshaft pre-lube was used, change the oil filter.

These higher speeds increase splash lubrication and decrease nose loading. Use only oils that meet or exceed the latest API ratings. If possible, following break-in the idle should be adjusted to the high specifications. Change oil after the first two hours of riding.

Engine Break-In Procedures:

After cam break-in, ride the bike through the power band and do not rev the engine over 6,000 RPM and do not lug the engine. Try to ride like this for at least two tanks of fuel or 10 to 12 hours. After this, change the oil and check for proper valve lash.

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With our commitment to total customer satisfaction, we at Trinity Racing use only the highest quality parts and material available. Our machine shop and service department are committed to giving nothing less than 100% every time.

Because of this commitment to quality workmanship, if a failure does occur, and it is determined by us to be an oversight on our part, we will repair or replace the work free of charge. Trinity Racing is not responsible for any shipping charges incurred during the return shipment. Damages caused by third party part failure is not covered by this warranty. (example: head gasket, base gasket, or piston).

VERY IMPORTANT If Trinity Racing serviced, assembled or modified your vehicle, we need to disassemble it or be informed about the disassembly. If any of our modified parts such as the bore, headwork, etc. are in need of repair, leave the parts as they are, do not modify or change them in any way. This may result in the void of your warranty. Also, do not have them repaired by anyone else before we can inspect or troubleshoot the problem or you will void the warranty!

Download WARRANTY warranty.pdf (184kb) You will need Adobe Reader to open file.

Trinity Racing will NOT Cover the following:

• Failures due to third party services.
• Failures due to third party product failure.
• Accidental damage.
• Improper maintenance.
• Acts of God

NOTE: Trinity Racing exhausts are subject to extreme vibration. You must make sure exhaust clamps are tightened occasionally to prevent accidental damages.

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Trinity Racing dealerships are independently owned and are not company stores or franchises. Trinity Racing products are sold to distributors, dealers, and associated companies for resale around the world.

The sale of a Trinity Racing dealership is privately negotiated between the current owner and the prospective buyer. However, dealers do have a contract with Trinity Racing to sell its products. Therefore, the issuance of a dealer contract is subject to approval by Trinity Racing. This ensures that the prospective buyer will have sufficient resources and will adequately represent the Trinity Racing brand and product in the marketplace.

Trinty Racing only sells to legitimate motorcycle, watercraft, or ATV industry dealers. This application must be filled out and approved before orders can be placed. Possession of a sales tax resale number does not automatically give any business or individual the privilege of buying from Trinity Racing. Trinity Racing reserves the right to refuse or accept all orders.

Download DEALER APP dealer_app.pdf (184kb) You will need Adobe Reader to open file.

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